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"The best dishes revolve around vegetables, like purple, golden and white cauliflower sprawled over black lentils, the last underscored by a faint red curry that is a delicate cousin to vindaloo (more tingle than inferno); knobby roasted parsnips whose sweetness is offset by wheat berries mellowed in orange-scented Allagash White beer; a fluffy beet-and-walnut hummus with whole radishes and crunchy tufts of Romanesco broccoli as crudités. Butternut squash is cooked down with apples and onions almost to the point of soup, then tossed with rock shrimp and cavatelli for a pasta that tastes confoundingly rich and light at once."
5 days ago
"Some dishes verge on monumental, like gumbo with a pleasingly sour undertow of dried shrimp and feijoada, a Brazilian black-bean stew stuffed with a whole merguez lamb sausage and crowned with a slab of oxtail whose daunting layer of fat arrives already melting."
13 days ago
"The city now has bars that boast beer lists longer than the Bhagavad Gita, but at McSorley’s you’re stuck (or blessed) with a binary: You can get McSorley’s own brew. A pale ale or a dark porter. That’s it. "
13 days ago
"Fung Tu is at its best when it traffics in nostalgia. The duck-stuffed dates are Mr. Wu’s attempt to recreate a long-lost street snack from pre-revolutionary Shanghai that his relatives still sigh over; a dessert of silken tofu harks back to a Mott Street shop where tofu was scooped like ice cream and doused with rock sugar syrup. And those chocolate-peanut-butter balls studded with sesame seeds? They’re a salute to Mr. Wu’s father’s favorite candy: Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups."
13 days ago
"If there is one dish that sums up the idiosyncratic lure of Mountain Bird, an almost-all-poultry restaurant that opened in Harlem in September, it is the dainty sampler of chicken parts. This includes, alongside that cockscomb, a pat of chicken liver pâté, sporting its own miniature comb of port-wine gelée, and a wing from perhaps the smallest chicken on earth, with the meat shucked off nearly the whole bone save for a tuft on top, sticky-sweet with truffle-balsamic sauce."
13 days ago
"Out of this minimalist space comes mostly comfort food, unobtrusively finessed. A frittata is crossed with pain perdu, made with brioche soaked overnight in egg and baked until bronzed outside and marbled pale yellow and brown inside. Grits are plumped up by almond-cashew milk and cayenne-spiked cashew cheese, rather hedonistic for something vegan."
13 days ago